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Re: layout questions



In a message dated 95-12-02 00:31:22 EST, you write:

<snip>
>    Any suggestions on how to do the Transbestos covering for the bench
>    surface?  The surface is a full 4 x 8, 3/4 plywood with 5/8 drywall on
>    top.  I have my nice, expensive roll of Transbestos, and of course at
>    39" wide it doesn't exactly match the bench dimensions....
<snip>
>      -Does the entire 4 x 8 top really need to be covered, i.e. will I end
>       up using all 32 sq. ft. and then some for bending, except for the
>       small space occupied by the ribbon burner flange (only thing
>       mounted on top)?
<snip>
>      -Attachment method?  (absent any other thoughts I was going to use
>                           the staple gun)

I don't worry about covering the entire table. Most, if not all of your
bending will be done on the half of the table nearest you. The rest of the
table just supports cold glass, in normal situations. I also don't attach the
transbestos. It just sits on top of the sheetrock. That makes it easier to
change when it gets worn, cut, or burned through.

>    A related question:  Does anyone know of mail order sources for brass
>    screen?  I've heard several suggestions about using relatively wide
>    mesh brass screen on top of paper patterns to save big Transbestos
>    bucks, but I haven't seen brass screen of *any* kind anywhere in my
>    local area.  (Having made probably 243 hardware/etc. store visits in
>    the past few weeks, I've looked around a lot!)

Years ago, I purchased mine at a tent and awning shop. I'm not sure why they
carried brass screen, but they sold it by the square foot, at about $3 per, I
think. For the last 3 years or so, I've been using regular aluminum window
screen, from Lowe's. It's cheap, available, and seems to hold up okay -- the
paper burns a little more than with brass, but that's usually no problem.

By the way, transbestos patterns are much easier to bend on -- with screen
you tend to get a unit that's a little less level. Also, it's easy to get
things caught under, or on the edge of the screen. It just ends up being a
little more work. I usually use paper w/screen, however, because I can just
print patterns directly off the computer (I use CorelDraw, with about a
thousand different fonts, onto a Roland plotter/vinyl cutter), which saves
some time, and makes for a more consistent and repeatable product. Another
reason I use paper is that I do lots of custom work -- if I get a production
job, or several identical units, I usually carbon it onto transbestos.

Ronnie Downs
Cessna6T@aol.com