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Re: Griffin Type Glass Tubing Cutter

Posted By: SVP Neon Equipment
Date: Monday, 19 June 2006, at 7:54 a.m.

In Response To: Re: griffen glass cutter (shocking)


> Never tried cutting the inside of the curve
> while real hot, maybe it does work. I cut it
> inside of curve when its still slightly
> warm. Also use the blowhose slightly on a
> curve if I know it has to be cut, it seems
> to solidify the glass better and not make it
> as susceptible to cracking. In any event,
> the most important thing is a GOOD SHARP
> FILE and go easy.

If the glass is heated and cooled properly there should not be problems with uneven cuts and running cracks when cutting the glass cold. However, at the risk of sounding "Holier than thou", many benders (if not most) were either taught wrong or have developed bad habits. I have seen and heard everything from heating and slightly stretching the glass in the area of the cut (which makes for a thin seal), to cutting it hot, cutting it on "top", on the inside of the radius and numerous other "tricks", all in an effort to make a decent and successful cut on a ribbon heated curve.

The main culprit is stress and where the score mark is made, plain and simple. The more you can reduce stress, the better chance there will be of making a successful cut with cold glass. I suggest making the score mark on the outside radius of the curve. A very fine scratch is all that is needed, which is why the Griffin cutter works so well for this. In the book "The Neon Engineers Notebook", Morgan Crook describes (for the most part) the technique I taught him years ago, but with a few discrepancies. Unfortunately I do not have time this morning to go in to further detail. But if you have a copy of the book, or have a friend who does, look it up. It may save you a lot of headaches.

Mark


SVP Neon Equipment

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